John Bowers January 1967 to August 1968
August 2015
On my way back to Phoenix from a family visit in Khon Kaen, I adjusted my schedule through Bangkok so that I could return to Saphan Kwai for a short visit and take a look at Seri Court. The last time I was there was 2010. As we raced down Pradipat Road in a tuk tuk towards Soi 14, I had a flashback. Anyone who has ever taken a ride in Bangkok in one of those three wheelers will definitely have a story to tell. I still vividly remember one time when we were heading for Pat Pong in a tuk tuk and the traffic going our direction was stopped. The driver, without a moment’s hesitation, pulled into the oncoming lane and went full throttle. I was sure that before I left Thailand, I’d be in an accident in one of those damn things. Anyway, as we’re heading down Pradipat Road, I’m wondering what I’ll find when we get to Seri Court. Was the gate locked? Had any of the three buildings been demolished? Was anyone still living there? Well, to my pleasant surprise, the gate was wide open so in I went, accompanied by my beautiful Thai wife. Even though I speak Thai, it is ever so much easier to get things accomplished when she is with me.
The entrance looked very clean by Thai standards. I swear I don’t think anything has changed in the look of the driveway and the block walls since I served there. I rounded the S curve and there it was, still intact, the newer barracks where I had stayed while there. I don’t think anything has been done to the buildings at Seri Court since the 83rd left in 1970. The area to the left of the driveway where the mess hall used to be and the right side also, definitely haven’t been trimmed in many years. As in my last visit, I found the caretaker and his wife living in the bottom area of the newer barracks. I had a pleasant chat with them and then asked about Mr. Amnui. They reported that a few years back, he had taken ill and moved out of Seri Court to be with family. Later he died. However, Mr. Bunrod was now living in that same area where Mr. Amnui had lived, in the bottom corner of the older barracks by where the horse shoe pits used to be. He had worked at the 83rd as a handyman. He is now 80 years old and uses a wheel chair to get around. He said that he couldn’t remember me personally but his memory was sharp on the activities I recalled happening when I served there. He mentioned the swimming pool, which was long ago removed and also mentioned the notorious Klub Kee Maow. I well remember quaffing a few cold ones in that establishment. I still have my engraved silver mug from Klub Kee Maow. I asked him about Mr. Huan and he told me that he still sells amulets on Pradipat Road, not far from Seri Court. However, Sunday was his day off and he was not working. Mr. Huan was a driver at the 83rd and by now has to be in his mid 70’s.
As the pictures I attached display, the buildings are in disrepair and slowly decaying. The area where the swimming pool and tennis court used to be has been cleared and flattened so that cars can be parked there. According to Mr. Bunrod, they do park cars there for a fee, although there were none there when I visited. The lower part of the older barracks is still trashed out and very cluttered. But remarkably, the three buildings remain standing, although in very sad condition. The old Day Room is still packed with junk.
So, overall, it was a pleasant trip down memory lane for me. I hope that those of you who also served at the 5th/83rd derive some pleasure from viewing these pictures and reflecting back on your experiences there. What I still have a hard time getting my hands around is the fact that it’s been almost 50 years since I served there!!
Best wishes to all who served at the 5th RRU and the 83rd RRSOU.
John Bowers
SP5
O4B2L48
1/67 – 8/68
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